Forgotten dreams, the Agawa Rock Pictographs, Canada

As I make my way down the steep steps hewn into the rock, cliffs rise up either side of me. Gazing up, a slither of brilliant blue sky is visible overhead. The summer sun may be shining fiercely but between the rocks it is cool and dark. The narrow entrance to the trail down to the Agawa Rock Pictographs makes a striking gateway to this sacred site.

Below: A large boulder wedged between the cliff faces. The trail to the pictographs takes you past but not under it.

A little further on, walking through the trees and ferns I find myself alone in the dappled sunshine. I pause for a while to soak up the atmosphere and let the others head-on without me. A feeling of calm washes over me. It’s a beautiful secluded spot. Serene and tranquil. Its spiritual resonance is palpable. As people approach, the moment passes. I continue along the trail towards the shore and the cliff face of Agawa Rock.

I have a fascination with sacred sites around the world. They connect us to the ancient history of the land and the people who once lived there. We were staying with my husband’s inlaws in Sault Ste Marie on the US-Canada border in Ontario by the shores of Lake Superior. When we heard that these pictographs were less than a couple of hours’ drive away, we were all eager to visit them.

We’d set off earlier that day following the twists and turns of Highway 17 along the shores of Lake Superior, heading north towards Wawa. After about an hour and half we reach the Sinclair Cove car park. From here, it’s a just short, if sometimes tricky hike to the pictographs.

It’s not long before I find myself on a rocky outcrop overlooking the water glistening in the sunshine. Neill and Anya are already there and eager as I am to clamber down to the pictographs. It’s not too busy and we don’t have to wait long to take our turn. Sturdy shoes with good grip are a must, or some recommend bare feet, as you need to walk along a steeply sloping ledge while hanging on to ropes and chains to see the pictographs. As we wait, a small group in kayaks appear around the corner and make their way towards us. There’s a boat launching ramp at Sinclair Cove and I do wonder if this might be a safer way to see the pictographs.

There’s a sign warning you “Death and injury have occurred when highly unpredictable waves have washed visitors off the rock ledge while viewing the pictographs.” A local tradition recommends making an offering of tobacco by placing some into the water with your left hand while asking permission from the spirits to view the pictographs.

Having edged my way along the rock, I cling precariously to the cliff face. Though faded, the pictographs are fascinating to see. I can make out a dragon-like body with spines along its back and tail, massive cat paws and two large horns upon its head. This is the Mishipeshu, an underwater wildcat, known as the Great Lynx, the master of all water creatures. It is said to live on the nearby Michipicoten Island. They are seen as an opposing yet complementary force to the Thunderbirds, the masters of the air.

The Ojibwe People

The Agawa Pictographs were created by the Ojibwe people, who have inhabited the region around Lake Superior for thousands of years. The Ojibwe, also known as the Anishinaabe, have a deep spiritual connection to the land, water, and sky. Their oral traditions, art, and cultural practices reflect a profound understanding of the natural world and its interconnectedness.

These ancient rock paintings, drawn onto the cliffs centuries ago, serve not only as historical artefacts but also as profound spiritual symbols. Revered by the Ojibwe, the pictographs represent sacred myths, powerful spirits, and the timeless relationship between humanity and the environment. Visiting this sacred site offers a unique opportunity to step into a space where the spiritual and the historical converge, an enduring legacy of the Ojibwe culture.

More than 100 images have been painted over hundreds of years onto the rock face overlooking Lake Superior. 35 of the images are visible from the ledge below the cliffs.

How and why were the pictographs painted?

The pictographs were created using red ochre, a natural pigment made from iron oxide. The artists would mix the ochre with animal fat or plant sap to create a paint that could withstand the elements.

The exact age of the pictographs is uncertain, but they are estimated to be several hundred years old, with some possibly dating back even further. While we can’t be certain of their meaning, experts agree that they depict spirits of the Ojibwes belief system known as manitous, images from shamanistic vision quests as well as historical events.

Next to the Mishipeshu (Michepezhoo) is an image of a canoe. Legend has it that people from an Iroquois tribe once paddled across Gitchee Gummee (Lake Superior) to challenge the Ojibwe tribe. Their chief Myeengun (Wolf of the MEemaid) stood on the top of the cliffs and called upon Misshipeshu. The Great Lynx rose from the depths of the lake and with a thrash of its scaley, spiked tail whipped up huge waves and capsized the Iroquois canoes, thus stopping the invasion. Chief Myeengun, then painted the scene of the canoe and the Mishipeshu on the cliff face as a warning to any further would-be invaders.

Shingwaukonce (Little White Pine) was from the Grand Island tribe, and Grand Shaman of the Lake Superior Ojibwe. He also painted some of the pictographs here but mostly though the artists are unknown. Some say that it was actually Shingwaukonce who painted the Misshipseuhu, although this may be referring to another painting elsewhere on the rock. It is said that he painted it after leading a revolt against copper miners, the Misshipseuhu being the protector of copper on Lake Superior.

Please respect the site and never touch the pictographs. Only visit when it is safe to do so, when the lake is calm and there hasn’t been any rain. Wear sturdy shoes with a good grip.

Vision Quests At Agawa Rock Pictographs

Vision-seeking at Agawa is a longstanding tradition that’s still alive today. One of the pictographs (below) includes four suns, representing the four days and four nights of fasting required for someone to receive their vision.

There is much debate about cultural appropriation and the dangers of non-native Americans offering Westernised versions of vision quests and sweat lodges here in the West. It takes many years of training to safely and appropriately lead such practices. 

Suggested reading: Plastic Shaman, Vision Quest and Sweat Lodges.

Refreshments and facilities at the Agawa Rock Pictographs

There are toilets but no other facilities at the car park by Sinclair Cove. The nearest place to eat or buy provisions for a picnic is at the Agawa Crafts and The Candian Carver car park off the highway about 45 minutes drive south of the pictographs at Pancake Bay. We stopped 5 minutes further south at The Voyageur’s Lodge at Batchawana Bay and swam in Lake Superior. It’s a family-friendly spot with a gently sloping beach.